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The frame is fabricated from 2 X 4 X .188 wall tube (3/16" thick). The front and rear crossmembers were notched to
allow a stronger method of attachment. Additional crossmembers will be added as the project progresses, and will
be designed to resolve any body mount alignment issues, as well as being placed in the strongest possible locations.
The straight ladder type frame design was chosen due primarily to ease of fabrication. The front spring hangers were
made from 3/16" flat steel. The drop from the bottom of the frame to center of the spring eye is approximately 5".
This is to allow clearance for the Tie rod and Drag link at the frame area during articulation. If it proves to be
excessive clearance, I will redrill the hangers closer to the frame, and cut off the excess. At that time, I will
box the hangers for additional strength. Since I've not built a frame like this before, I tried to incorporate as
many "flexible" ideas I could. By the way, the red dot on the frame was placed there so I knew where the front and
top of the frame was while fabricating it!
The rear spring hanger was designed like the front. The rear spring pack was made from 3
different spring packs. 2 stock Wrangler main leaves were used, the second of which I cut the eyes off to allow it
to partially wrap around the first. The next 2 leaves are from a CJ-7 4" pack, then there's another 2 stock Wrangler
leaves. This gives the pack a little arch and stiffness, and hopefully will allow the Jeep to sit level once the
body is placed. Again, the rear hanger will be boxed once final ride height is established.
The front spring mounts were angled rearward to allow them to "slide" up rocks. Once the motor, drivetrain, and body
are installed, the springs will flatten out considerably, which will lower the frame height an estimated 6-7". The
front and rear spring shackle mounts are just tacked into place until optimum locations can be established.
The frame is approximately 33 1/2" wide outside to outside. This width was chosen to allow
the stock locations of the Dana 60 front spring perches to be used, while maintaining the springs directly under
the frame runners. By now I have determined I will need to move the rear spring shackle forward 1.5". Interesting
to note with the stock offset 16.5" X 9.75" wheels, I still have a considerable amount of clearance from the frame
to the tire. This will increase even more when the offset rims are installed. Due to the 38.5" Swamper TSL SX's
being used, this extra width will lend itself well to STABILITY!!
The shackle mounts were placed at the end of the frame to help eliminate rear overhang, and due to the rear
crossmember, I felt this would also be a strong point. If all goes well with the design of this frame, it shouldn't
flex hardly at all. The idea here is to make the suspension flex.
Now that the frame project is this far, It's time to turn attention to the brakes.
After a quick coat of primer black, things are starting to look a little better. I need to extend a special thanks
to Driven Auto Parts, in Phoenix, Az. Some of the parts in this project came from Randy's operation. Randy has also
helped me out on numerous other occaisons as well, sourcing all kinds of Four wheel drive parts from U-bolts,
Axles, disc brakes, Transmissions and Transfer cases. If you find yourself needing a part, give Driven Auto a call.
602.269.3969. He ships everywhere UPS goes, too!
A little history on the rear brake assembly may be in order. When the axle was still under the donor truck, I
adapted disc brakes to it, using a custom bracket and 3/4 ton GM parts. The backing plate is fabricated out of 3/16"
flat plate, Everything else is pretty much stock GM parts.
Here the brake Tee is relocated from the Differential breather to the center of the axle. The benefit of doing this
is less flexible hose used for a firmer brake pedal. This is because the center of the axle moves the least amount
during suspension flex. Every attempt will be made to bring the axle breather tubes and ARB lines up from this
location. While it may be bulky to group them together, functionality often overrules aesthetics in my decision
process.
The Rubber flex lines are to be replaced with Stainless steel lines. The rubber line to the axle from the frame for
the rear brakes will be retained.
I will route the new stainless lines in primarily the same location as the old lines. It has
proven itself to shield the lines sufficiently, keeping them from being pinched, torn, or abraded by suspension movement
and trail obstacles. The axle breather tube will get a Stainless line as well. One other thing worth mentioning,
I plan to paint everything with a couple coats of flat black primer, followed by a flat camoflage tan color. This
will ensure ease of touch up from rock damage, and allow me to worry less about what the Jeep looks like and more
about just driving and enjoying it. Note the spring pads are just tacked in place. They will be welded to the axle
tube after the weight of the body and accessories have been added, and final angle measurements have been made.
The motor has been cleaned up, and re-assembled for mock up purposes only.
There are no gaskets installed, and the motor has yet to be rebuilt. This will be covered later in the project.
The oil pan for the 455 is already a rear sump, however, it is pretty shallow, an extension
was welded on to increase the capacity of the pan. A new pickup tube will also be fabricated.
Here the motor is placed between the framerails in roughly the position desired.
The motor angle or attitude is then adjusted by tension on the blue ratchet strap.
Once the angle is achieved, measurements are taken to begin the fabrication of the mounts.
The tube selected for the mount is .250" wall and will accept standard cage bushings. The
thickness is way overkill, but then again, I won't be building these again due to failure!
The approximate length of 2" reciever tube is cut. I always cut things a little longer
than needed, so I can adjust for a perfect fit.
The square tube is "fishmouthed" in preparation for welding to the round tube.
Here's a shot of the bushing located in the motor mount.
The two are tack welded together and everything is test fitted.
After completely welding, everything is checked one last time
prior to welding the tower to the frame.
Here is the tower after welding and a light coat of primer. This is done because
I am unsure when the gussets will get welded in, and I don't want things to rust.
Attention is now turned to the rest of the drivetrain and the Atlas II transfer case.
The case was ordered from Advance Adapter's for me by 4 Wheeler's Supply, in Phoenix, AZ.
Their phone number is 602.273.7195 The people at 4 Wheeler's Supply are helpful, knowledgeable and courteous.
Make sure you review a catalog with one of the staff prior to ordering, as there are some options and allot
of configurations for the Atlas II.
My particular configuration is the GM 10 spline with a left hand drop.
The sight glass you see here will be visible between the body and frame
for easy oil level checks.
This case will be placed behind an SM420 4 speed transmission, using a Novak adapter. Novak's phone
number is 1.877.602.1500 I've used Novak adapters before, and I believe they manufacture the finest adapters on the market.
Novak has been in business for years, They seem to know the importance of a short adapter in a Jeep for rear driveline length,
as their adapters are typicly 2" shorter than those made by Advance Adapters. They are also less expensive!
Here you see the Novak adapter attached to the SM420. It's only 3.1" long! With an adapter this short,
it wont be necessary to run a conversion shaft or stub. I'll be able to direct mate the output of the SM420 to the input of the
Atlas II. I found the Technicians at Novak especially helpful and extremely knowledgable when it came to this facet of the project.
The Buick bellhousing is Aluminum and needed a little cleaning up, too.
Assembly was a snap, here you see the rest of the drivetrain in mockup inside the frame.
Measurements are taken, adjustments are made, and the construction of the crossmember begins.
The fabrication is similar to the motor mount tower, the most important thing is to measure
twice and cut once.
Here's what the preliminary frame mounts look like without gussets.
This is the opposite side, and a better angle.
To fabricate the crossmember, I started in the center, and worked my way out to the frame.
It was determined this method would be best because each side had different considerations.
Note the drop for the front driveshaft.
Because the crossmember hangs lower than the transfer case, it will aid in protecting it from
rocks, as well as serve as a platform for additional skid plates.
The Novak adapter bolts directly to the crossmember, the mounts will be out toward the frame.
Alloffroad Early Bronco editor and good friend Greg Banfield a.k.a. Motoman comes over to assist
in fabricating and welding gussets. Here, he grinds the gussets into shape.
Greg is no stranger to the welder and can lay beads with the best of them!
Each gusset is first tacked into place.
Then fully welded to ensure strength.
Special consideration had to be given to the Left side of the transfer case,
as final location placed it close to the frame brackets. Nothing a little clearancing with a sawsall wouldn't
take care of though! Now, I try to place the tub on the Chassis.
