Steering arm fabrication


The way I decided to modify my steering setup at the axle will allow my tie rod and drag link to be above the springs, which is beneficial in most hardcore rockcrawling situations. I first saw this setup at Driven Auto on Randy's Early Bronco. After seeing several other types of setups, I decided a modified version of his is what I would build. The following steps outline the process I used to fabricate the Steering arms. A separate article will have to be devoted to the Drag link, and steering box placement, to ensure this article posts in a timely manner. So here it is, enjoy!

Passenger side before modification

In this picture, you can see the steering stop, which I twisted in for a little more turning, being careful to rotate the axles and check for binding in the U - joints. Also note the current location of the tie rod. On top of the knuckle you see a spring cup and bolts, this will be replaced by the new setup, raising the tie rod and drag link approximately 8 inches.

Driver's side before modification

The steering you see here will dissapear in favor of a steering sytem with a whole lot less bump steer.

Raw materials

2 sections of 1" thick plate with the aproximate dimensions of 12" X 4" were obtained from a local steel supply yard. Here I have traced the outline of the cap, centered on the plate at one end, and measured center to center dimensions of it to get absolute center for the 2-1/8" hole I'm going to have to drill.

Center punch plate

This picture shows the center punch mark.

Drill pilot hole

I used a bit just a fraction of a size smaller than the center bit in my hole saw for a pilot hole. This helps to keep things going straight.

First hole drilled

Remember to go slow and easy allowing the teeth of the hole saw to bite into the work. If you spin the bit too fast, you'll just burn up the teeth on the bit.

Repeat steps for 2nd plate

My arms grew an inch drilling these holes!

Mark bolt holes and drill

These I did on the drill press, which was much easier than doing it by hand. The drill press wasnt cutting the 2-1/8" hole too well because it spins too fast.

Measure depth of spring cup

The spring exerts a preload force on the teflon cones, so it is important to duplicate the original size of the spring cup.

Calculate height of tower

With 1-5/8" overall depth on my spring cup, I just had to come up with 5/8" towers, as the plate itself is 1" thick.

Cut ring

The pipe used should have a minimum wall thickness of 1/8". I used 2-1/4" pipe for this. I cut the pipe using a chop saw, I feel if you go slowly, you can get a much straighter cut with it than a Sawsall. I used a piece of 3/16" flat steel for the top of the spring cup, and after tack welding it in place I ground it down to match prior to welding.

Tack weld cup

I placed 4 evenly spaced tack welds on the cup, checked for trueness prior to continuing.

Steering arm after welding

I used a wire feed welder for this project, welding the sections in between the tack welds.

Close-up of new spring cup

It may not be pretty, but it will hold up!

Drill grease zerk hole

Drill and tap a hole for a grease zerk at the top center of the spring cup.

Ready for shaping

All that's left is to shape the arms. I simply tapered them down to 3" wide from the original 4", and shortened them to 11" overall.

Finished product

After shaping, I sprayed them with primer. This is how they look installed. Tie Rod Fabrication

Tie Rod

There were 3 factors incorporated in to the plan for the tie rod. 1). The shaft has to be extremely strong. 2). The tie rod ends and drag link ends all have to be identical, so only 1 spare has to be carried. 3). It has to be inexpensive. It is the 3rd factor that caused me to build the tie rod the way I did. The materials used to fabricate it were 2 3/4 ton tie rod assemblies. The only addition was to add a section of 1 1/16" I.D. pipe, for strength. The 1st step was to establish an approximate length and obtain it by cutting the end off that is not threaded. This end contains a tie rod end that is part of the tie rod, and since replacing it would mean replacing the bar, it had to go. The left handed thread on the other tie rod was cut off and welded to the trimmed end of the new tie rod. At this point, I had a tie rod with left handed threads at both ends. By assembling the sleeves and rod ends, I could see I was about an inch off of the desired length, which was long enough to screw the adjusting sleeves all the way down on the tie rod, and the ends all the way inside the adjusting sleeves until they touched the ends of the tie rod. I trimmed one of the left handed threads 1", and also trimmed the adjusting sleeve for that side 1" as well. The rod was then test fitted again, and determined to be the correct length. With the clamps on the adjusting sleeves tight, I then welded one adjusting sleeve to the tie rod, 1st, down the split of the sleeve, then around the end. I cut a length of pipe and slid it over the tie rod from the other end. I then welded the other sleeve in the same manner as the first, and then welded the pipe to the tie rod. The clamps for the tie rod were then removed, leaving only the end clamps The pipe will reinforce the 1 1/16" tie rod to the point where I don't have to worry much about it bending or breaking.
This is what the finished tie rod looks like. The holes in the steering arms still need to be taper drilled, but the tie rod is essentially complete.

Passenger Side Closeup Front View

Passenger Side Closeup Rear View

The portion of bolt that sticks up from the clamp will be cut off flush to the locknut on both tie rod ends.

Comparison of Rod Ends

The tie rod on the left is stock Jeep. The one on the right is 3/4 - 1 ton Chevy unit that I used. After taking pictures of the Tie rod, It became apparent to me since I built everything bigger, It was hard to get a perspective on just how big everything really is.